You can refresh antique furniture if the original finish isn't too messed up. This piece had been stored for quit a while. It was dingy and dirty and dinged up just a bit. I have to say as much as I love paint I enjoyed every minute of bringing this vintage oak chest of drawers back to life. It is stunning now.
I'll show you how I cleaned the chest inside and out and used wax, stain markers, WD-40, wood glue and more to bring this piece back to it's original glory.
The only thing not original to the oak chest of drawers are the knobs. I think after you get a look at the original drawer pulls you will agree that they needed to be replaced. But....there was also a change from the drawer pulls in the photos above.
The oak chest belongs to a friend of mine. It belonged to my friends Mother who passed it on to her for her daughter's bedroom. Now that daughter is grown and has daughters. It's must be nice to have a piece of furniture that belonged to your grandmother. The chest has been sitting in a garage for years. It's kind of a mess but nothing a bit of clean up and a few minor repairs won't fix up.
The veneer was peeling up in places and the original drawer pulls were loose and had rubbed big circles in the veneer around the screw holes. I wasn't sure if I could take care of those damaged areas around the drawer pulls.
The chest was also pretty dirty. The sticky contact paper covered all the drawer bottoms. There were spider eggs, lint, and cobwebs in the drawers and the dresser casing.
I was pleasantly surprised and very pleased at how well the chest of drawers cleaned up. Such a beautiful piece of furniture and a fond reminder of grandmother. I'll tell you everything I did to make it shine.
I decided the best option was to make all of the repairs before cleaning it up. First order of business was to remove the contact paper/drawer liner. Most of it pulled up easily. For the really sticky stuff I used a paint scraper, very gently.
Once that was removed I noticed one of the drawer bottoms had slipped out of the grooves in the front of the drawer. I gently hammered the drawer bottom into the grooves again by lifting the bottom with one hand (level with the grooves) and hammering the back of it into place with the other hand.
After the drawer bottom was fitted back into the grooves I used a nail gun to attach it to the drawer back. The bottom of the drawer will not be slipping out of the grooves and out the back of the drawer anymore.
There was loose veneer on several of the drawers. At one time a few repairs were made to the veneer and there was just a couple of tiny spots on the drawers where the veneer was missing. Hardly noticeable.
I used a small wood pick/thingie to slip the wood glue between the veneer and the drawer front. I was really gentle because I didn't want the veneer to crack or break. I used clamps to hold the veneer tight to the drawer until the glue dried.
I removed a few nails where prior drawer repairs had been made. Then I had to remove a couple of nails where I missed the side of the drawer when shooting the nails to hold the drawer bottom in place. At least I fessed up to it.
Once I made all the repairs I used a shop vac to get the worst of the dirt. Next I wiped the inside of the chest and the drawers with a rag and Simple Green. I dusted the drawer fronts and the outside of the chest with a dry rag. I did not use water or cleaning solution on the veneer and finished wood areas.
Now comes the fun part, where I get to make the chest of drawers pretty again. See the dramatic difference in the two drawers? The bottom drawer has been wiped down with Howard's Feed-N-Wax.
I used a couple of stain pens to cover the scratches and the worn area around the knob screw hole. The pens are like magic. That's all it took to make the finish shine.
The stain pens were two different brands and two different colors. One was dark walnut and the other was dark cherry. I kind of used them together. When using stain pens I always dot the stain on then wait just a bit and rub it off. The raw area or dull area of the finish should pick up the stain.
I used a small stencil brush to get the Feed-N-Wax into the corners, any tight spaces, and the wood applique on the mirror and mirror holder. I discovered this trick a few projects ago. The bristles of stencil brushes are firm and they work well for mushing stain, cleaning solutions, etc. into tight places. A rag and flat tip screwdriver are great for getting into little grooves like those on the feet. I cleaned the casters/wheels with Simple Green and sprayed them with WD40 when dry.
To freshen the drawers I sprayed the inside with Febreze and let them air out for a few days. The Febreze got rid of the musty odor and the strong smell of the Febreze dissipated after a few days.
Last piece of the puzzle is the mirror. I cleaned the mirror and used a heavy duty stapler to adhere loose areas of the mirror backing. You should have a heavy duty stapler in your tool drawer. They come in handy for re-covering chair seats and all kinds of things.
I attached the mirror holder to the chest then the JTS and I fitted the mirror to the holder. Sorry, no free hands to take photos of that. The metal attachments on the mirror and holder needed a couple of minor adjustments to make the mirror hang straight. Easy enough to do but works better with 4 hands.
Isn't that wood gorgeous. I really didn't think it would turn out this pretty. Glad I was wrong. I like oak wood but much prefer the darker stained oak and not the golden yellow.
Antique Furniture Restored With Love
You guys might recognize those knobs. The ones on the top drawers are new and the others I had on the wardrobe in our den. I decided it was time for those to go and I couldn't find any others that worked well with the chest so I put these on. The owner of the chest was out of town and not available to select new knobs.
She came by the workshop yesterday with these. Aren't they lovely. They really fit the style and the time period of the chest. I believe she got them at Hobby Lobby.
The chest was made by the Showers Brothers Company in Bloomington, Indiana. I think the chest was manufactured in the 1930's but not sure. More antique than vintage at this point.
A close look at those curvy feet and beautiful wood. It's always nice to have rollers on furniture.
One more close up look at the knobs and the curved edge of the top. On furniture this age oftentimes the top has water rings or scars from years of use but not this piece. If you need help with water stains there is a good tutorial here at This Old House.
I'm so pleased with this restoration.....and it's not paint. You can find another piece I restored and it is from the 1800's Saving Antique Furniture From The Paint Brush
I always prefer to save the original look of antique or vintage furniture if I can. This vintage porcelain top table is one of my favorite saves. Did you know you can wet sand the porcelain top and remove the worst scratches and imperfections. Watch my video below....
How to Clean and Refresh A Porcelain Table Top.
You can find the Howard's Feed-N-Wax and the stain pens on the Petticoat Junktion Amazon page by clicking here.
What do you guys think? Leave me a note if you have the time and as always, thanks for being here, Kathy